The Journey is Half the Adventure

Standing a couple yards off the trail on a cactus strewn hillside, we waited patiently for "El Toro".  Finally he comes into site.  Feverishly trotting down the hill, nostrils flaring, we made sure we were not in the path of this horned beast. 

We had not even stepped a hundred yards from the trailhead when we were directed off the path by a local.  Since this gentlemen only spoke Quechuan, we were lucky to understand a few key words such as "el toro" and "malo".  We got the hint.  This is how our trek began and would prove to be an exceptional cultural experience.

I have always wanted to embark on an expedition that exposed me to all of the elements a team encounters trying to reach and return from the trek/summit at hand. From the various transportation used and bartering that ensues to language barriers and acqusition of supplies. Most of all, the exposure to such unique cultures. The excitement and intrique of the whole "journey" is what I have yurned for. Not that this was anywhere near the level of Jimmy Chin's expeditions, but it was my own taste of a mini one!

Our journey started with a 4hr flight from Buenos Aires to Lima, Peru.  After a quick 4hrs of sleep in a hostel we jumped on a morning bus for an 8hr ride to Huaraz.  Huaraz is the gateway for expeditions to the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash.  Since Huaraz sits at an elevation of 10,000 ft,  we took 2 days to acclimate before heading on a 3hr trip to the trailhead at Cashapampa. 

Cashapampa ~ Llamacoral

The trek begins with a slow ascent through a dramatic canyon with looming peaks so tall and sheer you feel as though they could crash upon you at any moment.  Paralleling the Rio Santa Cruz the whole way, a fairly easy 4hr push leads us to the grassy flatland of Llamacoral (12,500ft).  This campsite had it all.  Views of 20,000 ft peaks in the distance, flat ground to set camp and even a convienence hut for all your needs.  Catering to hikers, you could purchase things such as Coke, beer, chips and TP at this hut.  Run by a young family, this valley is where they call home.  Behind their small wood  store was a stone, thatched roof structure where they slept and ate.  To survive they grew potatoes on the hillsides, raised burrows and horses and had several large gardens surrounding the structures.  So simple, so happy.

Speaking of happy.  Keeping with our tradition of packing in as much whole food as possible, for dinner we had fresh tamales that were still wrapped in the bannana leaves.  After a little heating in the pots, dinner was served!  Lesson learned from too many freeze dried meals in the past.

Llamacoral ~ Taullipampa

The trek continues among the flats of the valley with the company of plenty free range burrows, horses and long horned cattle.  It's another 4hr day, not gaining much elevation and passing by an enormous and magnificent glacial lake named Laguna Jatuncocha.  Just a peaceful and beautiful walk to our next site of rest.  At camp 2, we find ourselves in the shadows of giants.  Surrounded by peaks over 19 - 20,000 ft, this would prove to be one of the most beautiful camp spots I have ever encountered.  Since arriving so early, we quickly set up camp and headed up a trail that led to the basecamp of the peak, Alpamayo.  Revered as "The most beautiful mountain in the world" we stopped at a perfect vista point, sat there and gazed at it's hypnotic beauty for a good 1/2 hr.  I could have layed there for hours watching the ever changing weather atop this 20,000 ft peak, staring at the massive glaciers, trying to comprehend the power of this earth.  It was awe-inspiring to say the least. 

Just as we arrived back to camp, rain moved in with a vengence.  With no sign of it letting up, we were so graciously welcomed into the cooks tent of the guided group camping nearby.  We squatted in the corner, boiled our water for our dehydrated food and watched chef Julio whip up a 4 course gourmet meal for his clients.  It was quite impressive!  Ray and Megan had a great conversation with the guides as I sat there and tried to pick up on some of the words.  Megan continuously filled me in on the context so I could keep up.  It was such a pleasurable experience, the guides were wonderful people!

Later that night after the rained stopped, I crawled out of my tent to check out the night sky.  The stars were out to impress and the moon was so bright it was almost blinding.  I was able to spot the Southern Cross directly above a beautiful snowcapped peak. The surrounding three peaks were glowing with the brightest white I have ever seen.  It is hard to put into words what my eyes were seeing, so I tried to snap a shot of the beauty.

Sleeping at 13,600 ft (a first for me) would be the coldest and most uncomfortable night of sleep on this trek.  After the storm moved through and the clouds lifted, the winds picked up and the temp. dropped considerably.

Taullipampa ~ Punta Union Pass ~  Cachinapampa

Waking up in a tent covered in ice is not the most pleasant part of a morning, but it is a small price to pay for the amazing experience that has been unravelling for us.  The morning was freezing but would soon make way for a sunny day and a pleasant crossing of Punta Union Pass.  After shooing off some of the curious locals (long horned cattle), we packed up our wet camp and headed for the pass.  The higher we made it up the switchbacks, the more visible the snow line became.  Even though we had rain at our camp last night, just another 1000 ft higher, snow had fallen.  It was gorgeous.  Delicately laying there weighing down the tall grasses that fill the hillsides. 

Reaching Punta Union pass and crossing over was a new personal record for me.  Standing at 15,580 ft, it was the highest point I have ever hiked to .  Boasting a vivid glacial lake with the backdrop of 19,000 ft peak named Taulliraju, this climax of our trek was breathtaking.  Looking back down the valley where we had come from, was a stunning view of our campsite, the valley floor and the glacial lake we had passed a few days ago.  Truly awesome! 

Crossing the pass we entered into another valley.  The steep descent down countless switchbacks took a toll (as they always do) on everyones (burning) feet and (aching) knees.  This would be our longest push of the trek.  Meandering along the long a eventually flat valley where plenty of livestock grazed beneath the snowcapped 20,000 ft peaks in the distance. 

A welcoming committee of children from the nearby village came running up to greet us as we located our last nights camp.  Well, they really did not want to welcome us, as much as want to sell us cokes, ask for treats and satisfy their curiosity of us foreigners.  The preservation of culture seems very strong in my limited travels here.  With the natives sustaining life by living off the land.  In my eyes, it is kind of ashame that passers by taint, to a degree, the pure culture these locals sustain, by giving the kids candy and treats of the sort. 

Tonight was the only night we were able to light a small campfire.  A pleasant gift on the last night of camping.  Another night with the ever so bright moon that lit up the entire valley and plenty of stars to gaze at. 

Cachinapampa ~ Vaqueria ~ Huaraz

The trek out lead us along the fronts of many adobe brick houses with locals working in the fields or tending to there flocks.  Excited kids would come running out of the fields, up the hill to take a look at the gringos and see if they could get a treat.  It was Sunday, so we passed many villagers of all ages, walking to the highpoint of the village along the trail to worship. 


After a longer hike than expected down and across a huge valley, we finally reach the four house village of Vaqueria.  This is where we wait and barter a ride with the next bus driver to get us back to Huarez.  While waiting for our ride, we were able to celebrate the end of this amazing trek with some cold ones from the tiny village shop, (a coke for Ray and Megan, and me, Cusquena!)

Now, just a 6 hr, meandering bus ride over and down the 15,000 ft pass of Portachuelo, with many more stunning views of the peaks within the Andes. 

Hiking deep within the Andes has given me great exposure to the rich culture of the Andean and Peruvian people.   All the while giving way to the paradigm "less is more".  The simple way of life and total disconnection from mainstream society and civilization is just what the soul needs sometimes.

Many endless thanks to Ray and Megan for the hospitality, translation and most of all comradery and friendship.

Click here to View My Photos

Click here for Ray's Video compilation of the Trek

Click here for Ray's Pics

Eat More Beef!

Bridget and I are extremely fortunate to have a fantastic group of friends that we cherish so deeply.  The diversity of this group allows for us to experience the many avenues this life provides.  Most recently the road we followed was to South America.  Ray and Megan have recently taken up temporary residence in the tango city of Buenos Aires.  Lucky for us, both of them are fluant in Spanish and made navigating the city that more pleasurable. 

Upon our arrival we headed down to one of R and M's favorite places to snack on very tasty baked empanadas!  After filling ourselves we took a short tour of the nearby neighborhoods, picked up some local, very inexpensive but top notch Malbec wine and some fresh handmade pasta for a quiet homecooked meal that night.  These series of events quickly became our loose routine for the week.  Since the food is so delectable, all the days activities were planned around where we were going to eat and drink next.

Traditional Argentine breakfast consists of cortado's (expresso cut with milk), small juice, water and mouth watering croissants known as medialunas.  Lunches and dinners are all about the beef.  Paradillas (grills) are everywhere in the city and the favorite amongst the locals.  Be sure to fill up at lunch because it will need to tie you over for the rest of the afternoon and into the night until the restuarants open near 10pm!  Not to fear, if you need a snack or a quick sugar fix, just stop by Volta and savor a creamy helado (gelato), the best in B.A.! If helado is not your choice there is always the traditional alfajores, two round sweet biscuits/cookies joined together with dulce de leche (a milk based caramel sauce).

Dinner at Casa Coupage by far was the best overall dining experience we had in B.A.  Set within a mid-century Palermo home, two sommeliers are your host as they guide you through a wine tasting and seasonal food pairing.  From 9pm til 1am the four of us ate, drank conversed and laughed, thoroughly enjoying this genuine time with each other.

Standing as the largest city in Argentina and the second largest metro area in South America, B.A. holds many treasures to be discovered.  Mostly by foot or subte (the subway) we had the chance to explore this cities neighborhoods such as Palermo, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho, Recoleta and San Telmo.  In Palermo, the largest neighborhood in B.A., we had to opportunity to stroll through the botanical gardens that play host to over 5,500 species of plants, trees and shrubs.  Not to mention a very large community of cats! Palermo Hollywood gained it's name due to all the TV and Radio produces that took up residence there in the mid 90's.  We also visited a small organic market here as a "field trip" with ray and his Spanish Tutor.  A good learning experience for all!  P. Soho is an area known for it's fashion and provided us the opportunity to do plenty of window shopping.  A very popular district for young upper-class Argentines due to the fashion and street culture set amongst old B.A. architecture.  Recoletta is an affluent, exclusive and the most expensive neighborhood to reside in in B.A.  Not only is it expensive to live in, but to be laid to rest in Recoleta you need to have a great sum of money.

 La Recoleta Cemetary is a world famous mausoleum where some of the most influential and wealthiest Argentines lye, including Eva Perone.  Recoleta was populated by the wealthy citizens fleeing the late 19th cent. cholera epidemic that spread through the San Telmo neighborhood.  San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in B.A.  Here you can find numerous antique shops, many local artists and more often than none, spot a couple beautifully executing the seductive dance of Tango.

About an hour north of Buenos Aires by train, is the delta region of Argentina.  Tigre is the hub where city dwellers escape the harsh heat of summer by jumping on a boat and wisking off to one of the many islands resting within the multiple arms of the river.  Whether it is a day trip, camping or lying in a hamock next to your summer home, this region is a true gem. 

Bridget and I cannot express enough our gratitude to Ray and Megan.  Along with being wonderful hosts (and tour guides) the memories gained from our ever growing friendship will never be forgotten.

(As Megan once exclaimed "Bubbles of Joy!, Bubbles of Joy") 

Click Here to View The Pics!

Our Journey Continues....

This time we can be found on a trans-Atlantic flight direct to Rome! Since the day I met my wife, Bridget has had a passion to travel to Italy. We decided to combine our wedding and honeymoon into an unforgettable, cultural experience of a lifetime. For two weeks, the love of my life and I would discover what Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Tuscany and Rome have to offer us.

As we approach the city of Naples, it quickly becomes apparent that this is not your classic Italian city that is romanticised in pictures and movies. Instead it is a very busy cargo terminal, a large port for cruise ships and full of bustling chaotic streets. We are thrown right into the lawlessness driving that apparently occurs throughout all of Italy. No lanes, no blinkers, few and far between red lights. Everyone free to ride and drive (tons of scooters..the most efficient way to navigate the cities) as they please. It's a game of frogger if you try and cross a street on foot. Everyone is going somewhere in a hurry. Every second, as scooters weave in and out of traffic and cars do not hesitate when zipping out of alleyways, it seems as though there should be dozens of accidents. Yet surprisingly we did not see anyone get run over or any sort of incident at all ?!? In fact, during a cab ride, our driver actually bumped a Carabinieri (cop) during a three point turn. This did not even phase the official! These sort of things did not bother any of the locals....not the cut offs by other drivers, nearby side swipes and rear ends...not even the close encounters of almost getting run over!

Chasing the Wild Goose

Our next couple of days will consist of completing the remainder of the documents needed to marry in Italy and reaching Positano. First we simply needed to obtain a tax stamp from which every local tobacco store has for sale. No such luck for us. With the language being a huge barrier, we would visit and strike out at more than half a dozen shops before running into our savior. A gentlemen who ran a Bar (Bar = Coffee shop, no seats, quick visit and social place) and spoke English pointed us in the right direction. Success! Next was a trip to the U.S. Consulate to complete the Nulla Osta and then to the Prefettura to "Legalize" the Nulla Osta. Off to Positano!

Meandering along coast, the view promised spectacular landscapes around each corner making the anticipation for Positano even greater the closer we drew near. Sea level roads gave way to shear cliff side ones with houses built right into the cliff side. "Wow", "Look at that", "Can you believe it" was about the extent of our conversations as we were mesmerized by the beauty of the coastline. Sometimes it was hard to distinguish where the cliff ended and the structure began. Amazing engineering.

The town of Positano is simply magical. Pastel structures fill the cliffs that lead down to the beautiful seaside. Shops, cafes, bars and gellaterias line the streets. Be careful as you exit these shops, there are no sidewalks, just narrow streets w/cars, mopeds and scooters zipping by constantly. Truly a unique town and even more unique and special experience.

With the language barrier continuing to be a nuisance, the chase continues. This time searching for the town hall where we will be married. Circling the town 4-5 times on the one way street that leads down to the sea to the top of the mountain. Once again, we eventually come across an English speaking local who explains to us where we need to go. Now off to find our lodging.

Seemingly further than we expected from the town of Positano, we finally arrive at the agriturismo. Perched high on the cliff overlooking the ocean is this B & B style home that is just beautiful. While settling into our room we begin to catch a foul odor wafting through our room and the lower level of the home. After further inspection we find that the sewer field and tank cover is directly outside of our room. I can imagine the difficulty living on a cliff side poses on the "plumbing" arrangements, yet there could have been a better solution to eliminating the odor. While talking over a carafe of wine, Bridget and I decided that our arrangements here would not be sufficient enough due to the factors of distance from Positano and the wonderful aromas the house offered. A quick phone call to our wedding coordinator and she had us set up in a wonderful hotel in Positano named Hotel La Bougainville for the remainder of our week. After a wonderful dinner, a nights rest and bread filled breakfast, we headed back into Positano.

Our hotel was only a few steps from the main piazza and we spent the rest of our day lazily strolling the picturesque city sipping on macchiatos, eating, window shopping and savoring the local gelato! Dinner was fantastic as we sat outside on the sidewalk right on the cliff overlooking the beach.

The Big Day!
As far as the day of Weddings go, I am confident that Bridget and I were far from the normal Bride and Groom. We had no pressure upon us as our day began. A relaxing breakfast followed by a stroll in town, then a bite to eat for lunch. Then back to the room to get ready. Since we were having pictures taken before the cermony, it was inevitable that I was going to see my bride in her dress. When I did, my heart started to race. She was stunning, so elegant....so beautiful! Since her dress was so form fitting, I had to put her shoes on for her. We had a good laugh and many after that. We were having such a wonderful time with each other.

Maximus was our photographers name, an exuberant local who loved his profession. He lead us through the streets and walkways of Positano capturing one of the most precious days of our lives. We were on top of the world as locals and tourists clapped and exclaimed "Bellisimo"! An hour of modeling in the streets then we headed to the town hall. The ceremony was simple and beautiful. We were out on a balcony overlooking the ocean as a mandolin player continuosly strummed beautiful music while the statements were read. Following the ceremony we headed to the top of town to a breathtaking vista overlooking all of Positano for the final picture shoot. There was a fruit stand at this location and apparently Maximo knows the owner along with everyone else in Positano. We asked if we could get a picture in front of the stand. They went above and beyond and let us get within the stand, feed each other grapes and drape strands of dried chili peppers around each others necks. An absolutely fun way to end the day. Music on the rocks was where we had our celebretory dinner. The perfect ending to a perfect day.

Toscana
With a six hour journey ahead of us, we started the day off early. We were headed to a small town called Chianciano where our Villa awaited us. For the next week we would use this small sustainable farmstead as our hub for day trips. Included would be Pienza, Cortona, Montepulchiano, Montalcino, Sienna and Firenze.

Every town had something different to offer. Whether it was a certain wine or cheese due to the wide array of microclimates Italy has to the many different cultural traditions. Each town has multiple churches, piazzas, statues, pizzarias, gelaterias, musuems, parks, bars and cafes. Positano aside, my favorite town was Sienna while Bridgets was Firenze. Firenze offered a very cultural and fashionable experience for here, something that draws her toward city life. The small town, old world feel of Sienna presented was what stuck with me about the city.

Most small towns were perched atop the highest point around resembling medevil fortresses. Very interesting how 20th and 21st Century populations have adapted their living amongst the ancient cities. Outside of these towns are beautiful, lush green rolling hills as far as the eye can see.

Each town consists of multiple duomos, some of which you are able to climb to the top of. Sometimes having in excess of 400 stairs, spiraling to the top. Well worth every step as you gain a unique perspective both inside and out. Unfortunately, as the number that we visited grew, the less interested we became. With each one containing thousands of years of history, the information became overwhelming. None the less every structure, especially the churches were stunning and gained our respect from every degree of thinking.

Roma
Our last three days of this perfect journey were spent exploring the vast city of Rome. Three days was enough for us. We covered most of the main part on foot, coming across the mind boggling structures of the Colliseum, the Roman Forum, Vatican City, Piazza Navona, The Spanish Steps, Medici Gardens and multiple other ruins that lay amongst this 21st century city. It's amazing how much history is just lying around not documented or even unearthed yet. This in fact was the most overwhelming experience we had the whole trip. Information overload is an understatement as we tried to grasp the timeline and historical moments that define this civilization of the past.

Our journey together began almost seven years ago to the date of our marriage and since has taken us to many reaches on this earth and within ourselves as well. This is yet another chapter in the continuous growth of our relationship as we add more pages to the beautiful novel of our life together.

Click here to view photos of Our Wedding

Click here to view photos of Our whole trip