Our Belgian Bier Tour

Beer.  Behind water and tea, it's the third most popular drink worldwide.  So why not go to the source to and experience it at it's best!

That is exactly what Ray, Megan, Bridget and I did for ten days in October.  Driven by a compact, fuel efficient, diesel car.  Motivated with a thirst to taste some of the best brews in the world.  Challenged by a goal to sample 100 different beers in 10 days.  With the Kingdom of Belgium matching the size of Maryland, we were sure to experience a good bit of the country in our time frame.

Our journey began with two days in Brussels.  Here we were fortunate enough to tour the Cantillon Brewery, the oldest beer brewery in Brussels that produces lambic and geuze beers.  We also stepped into the museum of Rene Magritte. This Belgian born surrealist is well known for his painting "the son of a man" featured in the adaptation of The Thomas Crown Affair.  Even with Brussels being the capital of Belgium and the seat of the E.U., it's  medieval architecture and cobblestone streets help maintain it's roots from when it was a 10th century fortress town.

From Brussels we traveled south to the sleepy town of Chimay.  Chimay Brewery is home to one of the select seven Trappist Abbeys .  Six of these Abbeys are located within the borders of Belgium.  The seventh is located next door in the Netherlands.  After leaving Chimay, we drove along the border of France heading towards the Province of West Flanders for a nights stay in the town of Poperinge.  Of course along the way we make some pit stops at more Breweries.  

Included was a stop in Tourpes to visit the Brewery Dupont, another break in Watou to see the St. Bernardus Brewery and finally, the must see town of Westvleteren to drink the holy grail of Belgian Beers.  Here in the Trappist Abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren the monks brew what is revered to be the best beer in the world, the Westvleteren 12.  This is the only place in the world that you "are supposed" to be able to get this greatness.  Although the monks do their best to keep it that way, I am sure it can be found at other sources with a premium price attached!

Next was a two night stay In Bruges, "The Venice of the North".  Brugge is a canal based city full of cobblestone streets, medieval structures and wonderful waterways.  Although the city caters to tourists we thoroughly enjoyed our two days here.  We stopped in for a brew at the De Halve Maan brewery.  This is the only family run brewery still active in the town of Brugge.  The highlight beer of this city for me, hands down, was De Garre.   This elusive pub is known for its exclusive Tripel de Garre beer.  It's hidden in a narrow cul-de-sac and is notoriously hard to find!  We ended up hitting this place twice.

My favorite city of all was Ghent.  This town offers everything Brugge does except for the touristy part.  Ghent is a university based town with great architecture, beautiful canals and plenty of restaurants and museums.  All without tourist traps.  Brewery Huyghe is a very notable brew house near the town of Ghent.  Known best for its Delirium Tremens with the recognizable pink elephant on the bottle.  The definition of the name is "an acute episode of delirium that is usually caused by withdrawal from alcohol"

For the last night in Belgium we headed to another university town named Leuven.  Not without a stop in Buggenhout first, to see the Bosteels Brewery.  Here they brew another one of my favorites and  internationally known beers, the Triple Karmeliet.

Leuven is home to the worlds largest brewing group, Anheuser-Busch In Bev.  Included in their portfolio is the ever so popular Stella Artois.  This factory sets itself apart from most the others we saw due to it's enormous size, large stacks on the top of the building and acres of storage yards.  

Of course by consuming all this beer, we had to eat!  Belgium is best known for it's gastronomic offer of mussels, pommes frites and chocolate.  Even deeper than those tasteful things are dishes that include magnificent rabbit, stoemp, (potato mashed with other vegetables, often served with sausages), tasty soups and plenty of baked goods. 

So, what do you get when you put plenty of excellent, high percentage beer and tasteful food that fills your stomach??   Answer: An afternoon nap!  Almost everyday after brisks walks in the city, beer and food, we would head back to our B&B for some rest to recharge for the rest of the night.  Admittedly the goal of 100 different beers in 10 days was a challenge.  Every beer in Belgium is not superb.  They do have the equivalent of our Schlitz, Schaefer or Peels.  So to aid in our quest, we stopped a couple of times in a convenient store, bought 3 of these cheapies and walked the streets with them. Yes, in Belgium it is legal to drink anywhere!


By the end of the trip we had successfully met our goal!!  We sampled 100 different beers while experiencing a lot of the country.  The citizens of Belgium are sensible and open minded people that love their beer and their country.  Always with open arms,  the locals helped take our experience in Belgium to the next level.

*Click Here for Ray's review of our tour.*

*Click Here to see my pics.*

Warrior For A Day

As a kid when I came home full of mud, head to toe, shoes, pants and shirt practically ruined, my parents would not be happy to say the least.  Some sort of mild punishment would most likely ensue.  Fast forward to October of this year and here I am paying to get that dirty.

The Warrior Dash is a running series held in multiple cities nationwide.  A 5k cross-country style run that is laced with obstacles such as cargo containers to climb over, mud bogs and murky waters to trudge through, barbed wire to army crawl underneath while wallowing in a mud pit.  WHAT A BLAST!!  This year over 5,000 people participated over the two days.

Your reward?   Beer, huge turkey legs, live music and great friends to hang out with.  
Next year we are taking it up one notch.  The TOUGH MUDDER! 

The Journey is Half the Adventure

Standing a couple yards off the trail on a cactus strewn hillside, we waited patiently for "El Toro".  Finally he comes into site.  Feverishly trotting down the hill, nostrils flaring, we made sure we were not in the path of this horned beast. 

We had not even stepped a hundred yards from the trailhead when we were directed off the path by a local.  Since this gentlemen only spoke Quechuan, we were lucky to understand a few key words such as "el toro" and "malo".  We got the hint.  This is how our trek began and would prove to be an exceptional cultural experience.

I have always wanted to embark on an expedition that exposed me to all of the elements a team encounters trying to reach and return from the trek/summit at hand. From the various transportation used and bartering that ensues to language barriers and acqusition of supplies. Most of all, the exposure to such unique cultures. The excitement and intrique of the whole "journey" is what I have yurned for. Not that this was anywhere near the level of Jimmy Chin's expeditions, but it was my own taste of a mini one!

Our journey started with a 4hr flight from Buenos Aires to Lima, Peru.  After a quick 4hrs of sleep in a hostel we jumped on a morning bus for an 8hr ride to Huaraz.  Huaraz is the gateway for expeditions to the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash.  Since Huaraz sits at an elevation of 10,000 ft,  we took 2 days to acclimate before heading on a 3hr trip to the trailhead at Cashapampa. 

Cashapampa ~ Llamacoral

The trek begins with a slow ascent through a dramatic canyon with looming peaks so tall and sheer you feel as though they could crash upon you at any moment.  Paralleling the Rio Santa Cruz the whole way, a fairly easy 4hr push leads us to the grassy flatland of Llamacoral (12,500ft).  This campsite had it all.  Views of 20,000 ft peaks in the distance, flat ground to set camp and even a convienence hut for all your needs.  Catering to hikers, you could purchase things such as Coke, beer, chips and TP at this hut.  Run by a young family, this valley is where they call home.  Behind their small wood  store was a stone, thatched roof structure where they slept and ate.  To survive they grew potatoes on the hillsides, raised burrows and horses and had several large gardens surrounding the structures.  So simple, so happy.

Speaking of happy.  Keeping with our tradition of packing in as much whole food as possible, for dinner we had fresh tamales that were still wrapped in the bannana leaves.  After a little heating in the pots, dinner was served!  Lesson learned from too many freeze dried meals in the past.

Llamacoral ~ Taullipampa

The trek continues among the flats of the valley with the company of plenty free range burrows, horses and long horned cattle.  It's another 4hr day, not gaining much elevation and passing by an enormous and magnificent glacial lake named Laguna Jatuncocha.  Just a peaceful and beautiful walk to our next site of rest.  At camp 2, we find ourselves in the shadows of giants.  Surrounded by peaks over 19 - 20,000 ft, this would prove to be one of the most beautiful camp spots I have ever encountered.  Since arriving so early, we quickly set up camp and headed up a trail that led to the basecamp of the peak, Alpamayo.  Revered as "The most beautiful mountain in the world" we stopped at a perfect vista point, sat there and gazed at it's hypnotic beauty for a good 1/2 hr.  I could have layed there for hours watching the ever changing weather atop this 20,000 ft peak, staring at the massive glaciers, trying to comprehend the power of this earth.  It was awe-inspiring to say the least. 

Just as we arrived back to camp, rain moved in with a vengence.  With no sign of it letting up, we were so graciously welcomed into the cooks tent of the guided group camping nearby.  We squatted in the corner, boiled our water for our dehydrated food and watched chef Julio whip up a 4 course gourmet meal for his clients.  It was quite impressive!  Ray and Megan had a great conversation with the guides as I sat there and tried to pick up on some of the words.  Megan continuously filled me in on the context so I could keep up.  It was such a pleasurable experience, the guides were wonderful people!

Later that night after the rained stopped, I crawled out of my tent to check out the night sky.  The stars were out to impress and the moon was so bright it was almost blinding.  I was able to spot the Southern Cross directly above a beautiful snowcapped peak. The surrounding three peaks were glowing with the brightest white I have ever seen.  It is hard to put into words what my eyes were seeing, so I tried to snap a shot of the beauty.

Sleeping at 13,600 ft (a first for me) would be the coldest and most uncomfortable night of sleep on this trek.  After the storm moved through and the clouds lifted, the winds picked up and the temp. dropped considerably.

Taullipampa ~ Punta Union Pass ~  Cachinapampa

Waking up in a tent covered in ice is not the most pleasant part of a morning, but it is a small price to pay for the amazing experience that has been unravelling for us.  The morning was freezing but would soon make way for a sunny day and a pleasant crossing of Punta Union Pass.  After shooing off some of the curious locals (long horned cattle), we packed up our wet camp and headed for the pass.  The higher we made it up the switchbacks, the more visible the snow line became.  Even though we had rain at our camp last night, just another 1000 ft higher, snow had fallen.  It was gorgeous.  Delicately laying there weighing down the tall grasses that fill the hillsides. 

Reaching Punta Union pass and crossing over was a new personal record for me.  Standing at 15,580 ft, it was the highest point I have ever hiked to .  Boasting a vivid glacial lake with the backdrop of 19,000 ft peak named Taulliraju, this climax of our trek was breathtaking.  Looking back down the valley where we had come from, was a stunning view of our campsite, the valley floor and the glacial lake we had passed a few days ago.  Truly awesome! 

Crossing the pass we entered into another valley.  The steep descent down countless switchbacks took a toll (as they always do) on everyones (burning) feet and (aching) knees.  This would be our longest push of the trek.  Meandering along the long a eventually flat valley where plenty of livestock grazed beneath the snowcapped 20,000 ft peaks in the distance. 

A welcoming committee of children from the nearby village came running up to greet us as we located our last nights camp.  Well, they really did not want to welcome us, as much as want to sell us cokes, ask for treats and satisfy their curiosity of us foreigners.  The preservation of culture seems very strong in my limited travels here.  With the natives sustaining life by living off the land.  In my eyes, it is kind of ashame that passers by taint, to a degree, the pure culture these locals sustain, by giving the kids candy and treats of the sort. 

Tonight was the only night we were able to light a small campfire.  A pleasant gift on the last night of camping.  Another night with the ever so bright moon that lit up the entire valley and plenty of stars to gaze at. 

Cachinapampa ~ Vaqueria ~ Huaraz

The trek out lead us along the fronts of many adobe brick houses with locals working in the fields or tending to there flocks.  Excited kids would come running out of the fields, up the hill to take a look at the gringos and see if they could get a treat.  It was Sunday, so we passed many villagers of all ages, walking to the highpoint of the village along the trail to worship. 


After a longer hike than expected down and across a huge valley, we finally reach the four house village of Vaqueria.  This is where we wait and barter a ride with the next bus driver to get us back to Huarez.  While waiting for our ride, we were able to celebrate the end of this amazing trek with some cold ones from the tiny village shop, (a coke for Ray and Megan, and me, Cusquena!)

Now, just a 6 hr, meandering bus ride over and down the 15,000 ft pass of Portachuelo, with many more stunning views of the peaks within the Andes. 

Hiking deep within the Andes has given me great exposure to the rich culture of the Andean and Peruvian people.   All the while giving way to the paradigm "less is more".  The simple way of life and total disconnection from mainstream society and civilization is just what the soul needs sometimes.

Many endless thanks to Ray and Megan for the hospitality, translation and most of all comradery and friendship.

Click here to View My Photos

Click here for Ray's Video compilation of the Trek

Click here for Ray's Pics

Eat More Beef!

Bridget and I are extremely fortunate to have a fantastic group of friends that we cherish so deeply.  The diversity of this group allows for us to experience the many avenues this life provides.  Most recently the road we followed was to South America.  Ray and Megan have recently taken up temporary residence in the tango city of Buenos Aires.  Lucky for us, both of them are fluant in Spanish and made navigating the city that more pleasurable. 

Upon our arrival we headed down to one of R and M's favorite places to snack on very tasty baked empanadas!  After filling ourselves we took a short tour of the nearby neighborhoods, picked up some local, very inexpensive but top notch Malbec wine and some fresh handmade pasta for a quiet homecooked meal that night.  These series of events quickly became our loose routine for the week.  Since the food is so delectable, all the days activities were planned around where we were going to eat and drink next.

Traditional Argentine breakfast consists of cortado's (expresso cut with milk), small juice, water and mouth watering croissants known as medialunas.  Lunches and dinners are all about the beef.  Paradillas (grills) are everywhere in the city and the favorite amongst the locals.  Be sure to fill up at lunch because it will need to tie you over for the rest of the afternoon and into the night until the restuarants open near 10pm!  Not to fear, if you need a snack or a quick sugar fix, just stop by Volta and savor a creamy helado (gelato), the best in B.A.! If helado is not your choice there is always the traditional alfajores, two round sweet biscuits/cookies joined together with dulce de leche (a milk based caramel sauce).

Dinner at Casa Coupage by far was the best overall dining experience we had in B.A.  Set within a mid-century Palermo home, two sommeliers are your host as they guide you through a wine tasting and seasonal food pairing.  From 9pm til 1am the four of us ate, drank conversed and laughed, thoroughly enjoying this genuine time with each other.

Standing as the largest city in Argentina and the second largest metro area in South America, B.A. holds many treasures to be discovered.  Mostly by foot or subte (the subway) we had the chance to explore this cities neighborhoods such as Palermo, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho, Recoleta and San Telmo.  In Palermo, the largest neighborhood in B.A., we had to opportunity to stroll through the botanical gardens that play host to over 5,500 species of plants, trees and shrubs.  Not to mention a very large community of cats! Palermo Hollywood gained it's name due to all the TV and Radio produces that took up residence there in the mid 90's.  We also visited a small organic market here as a "field trip" with ray and his Spanish Tutor.  A good learning experience for all!  P. Soho is an area known for it's fashion and provided us the opportunity to do plenty of window shopping.  A very popular district for young upper-class Argentines due to the fashion and street culture set amongst old B.A. architecture.  Recoletta is an affluent, exclusive and the most expensive neighborhood to reside in in B.A.  Not only is it expensive to live in, but to be laid to rest in Recoleta you need to have a great sum of money.

 La Recoleta Cemetary is a world famous mausoleum where some of the most influential and wealthiest Argentines lye, including Eva Perone.  Recoleta was populated by the wealthy citizens fleeing the late 19th cent. cholera epidemic that spread through the San Telmo neighborhood.  San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in B.A.  Here you can find numerous antique shops, many local artists and more often than none, spot a couple beautifully executing the seductive dance of Tango.

About an hour north of Buenos Aires by train, is the delta region of Argentina.  Tigre is the hub where city dwellers escape the harsh heat of summer by jumping on a boat and wisking off to one of the many islands resting within the multiple arms of the river.  Whether it is a day trip, camping or lying in a hamock next to your summer home, this region is a true gem. 

Bridget and I cannot express enough our gratitude to Ray and Megan.  Along with being wonderful hosts (and tour guides) the memories gained from our ever growing friendship will never be forgotten.

(As Megan once exclaimed "Bubbles of Joy!, Bubbles of Joy") 

Click Here to View The Pics!

Our Journey Continues....

This time we can be found on a trans-Atlantic flight direct to Rome! Since the day I met my wife, Bridget has had a passion to travel to Italy. We decided to combine our wedding and honeymoon into an unforgettable, cultural experience of a lifetime. For two weeks, the love of my life and I would discover what Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Tuscany and Rome have to offer us.

As we approach the city of Naples, it quickly becomes apparent that this is not your classic Italian city that is romanticised in pictures and movies. Instead it is a very busy cargo terminal, a large port for cruise ships and full of bustling chaotic streets. We are thrown right into the lawlessness driving that apparently occurs throughout all of Italy. No lanes, no blinkers, few and far between red lights. Everyone free to ride and drive (tons of scooters..the most efficient way to navigate the cities) as they please. It's a game of frogger if you try and cross a street on foot. Everyone is going somewhere in a hurry. Every second, as scooters weave in and out of traffic and cars do not hesitate when zipping out of alleyways, it seems as though there should be dozens of accidents. Yet surprisingly we did not see anyone get run over or any sort of incident at all ?!? In fact, during a cab ride, our driver actually bumped a Carabinieri (cop) during a three point turn. This did not even phase the official! These sort of things did not bother any of the locals....not the cut offs by other drivers, nearby side swipes and rear ends...not even the close encounters of almost getting run over!

Chasing the Wild Goose

Our next couple of days will consist of completing the remainder of the documents needed to marry in Italy and reaching Positano. First we simply needed to obtain a tax stamp from which every local tobacco store has for sale. No such luck for us. With the language being a huge barrier, we would visit and strike out at more than half a dozen shops before running into our savior. A gentlemen who ran a Bar (Bar = Coffee shop, no seats, quick visit and social place) and spoke English pointed us in the right direction. Success! Next was a trip to the U.S. Consulate to complete the Nulla Osta and then to the Prefettura to "Legalize" the Nulla Osta. Off to Positano!

Meandering along coast, the view promised spectacular landscapes around each corner making the anticipation for Positano even greater the closer we drew near. Sea level roads gave way to shear cliff side ones with houses built right into the cliff side. "Wow", "Look at that", "Can you believe it" was about the extent of our conversations as we were mesmerized by the beauty of the coastline. Sometimes it was hard to distinguish where the cliff ended and the structure began. Amazing engineering.

The town of Positano is simply magical. Pastel structures fill the cliffs that lead down to the beautiful seaside. Shops, cafes, bars and gellaterias line the streets. Be careful as you exit these shops, there are no sidewalks, just narrow streets w/cars, mopeds and scooters zipping by constantly. Truly a unique town and even more unique and special experience.

With the language barrier continuing to be a nuisance, the chase continues. This time searching for the town hall where we will be married. Circling the town 4-5 times on the one way street that leads down to the sea to the top of the mountain. Once again, we eventually come across an English speaking local who explains to us where we need to go. Now off to find our lodging.

Seemingly further than we expected from the town of Positano, we finally arrive at the agriturismo. Perched high on the cliff overlooking the ocean is this B & B style home that is just beautiful. While settling into our room we begin to catch a foul odor wafting through our room and the lower level of the home. After further inspection we find that the sewer field and tank cover is directly outside of our room. I can imagine the difficulty living on a cliff side poses on the "plumbing" arrangements, yet there could have been a better solution to eliminating the odor. While talking over a carafe of wine, Bridget and I decided that our arrangements here would not be sufficient enough due to the factors of distance from Positano and the wonderful aromas the house offered. A quick phone call to our wedding coordinator and she had us set up in a wonderful hotel in Positano named Hotel La Bougainville for the remainder of our week. After a wonderful dinner, a nights rest and bread filled breakfast, we headed back into Positano.

Our hotel was only a few steps from the main piazza and we spent the rest of our day lazily strolling the picturesque city sipping on macchiatos, eating, window shopping and savoring the local gelato! Dinner was fantastic as we sat outside on the sidewalk right on the cliff overlooking the beach.

The Big Day!
As far as the day of Weddings go, I am confident that Bridget and I were far from the normal Bride and Groom. We had no pressure upon us as our day began. A relaxing breakfast followed by a stroll in town, then a bite to eat for lunch. Then back to the room to get ready. Since we were having pictures taken before the cermony, it was inevitable that I was going to see my bride in her dress. When I did, my heart started to race. She was stunning, so elegant....so beautiful! Since her dress was so form fitting, I had to put her shoes on for her. We had a good laugh and many after that. We were having such a wonderful time with each other.

Maximus was our photographers name, an exuberant local who loved his profession. He lead us through the streets and walkways of Positano capturing one of the most precious days of our lives. We were on top of the world as locals and tourists clapped and exclaimed "Bellisimo"! An hour of modeling in the streets then we headed to the town hall. The ceremony was simple and beautiful. We were out on a balcony overlooking the ocean as a mandolin player continuosly strummed beautiful music while the statements were read. Following the ceremony we headed to the top of town to a breathtaking vista overlooking all of Positano for the final picture shoot. There was a fruit stand at this location and apparently Maximo knows the owner along with everyone else in Positano. We asked if we could get a picture in front of the stand. They went above and beyond and let us get within the stand, feed each other grapes and drape strands of dried chili peppers around each others necks. An absolutely fun way to end the day. Music on the rocks was where we had our celebretory dinner. The perfect ending to a perfect day.

Toscana
With a six hour journey ahead of us, we started the day off early. We were headed to a small town called Chianciano where our Villa awaited us. For the next week we would use this small sustainable farmstead as our hub for day trips. Included would be Pienza, Cortona, Montepulchiano, Montalcino, Sienna and Firenze.

Every town had something different to offer. Whether it was a certain wine or cheese due to the wide array of microclimates Italy has to the many different cultural traditions. Each town has multiple churches, piazzas, statues, pizzarias, gelaterias, musuems, parks, bars and cafes. Positano aside, my favorite town was Sienna while Bridgets was Firenze. Firenze offered a very cultural and fashionable experience for here, something that draws her toward city life. The small town, old world feel of Sienna presented was what stuck with me about the city.

Most small towns were perched atop the highest point around resembling medevil fortresses. Very interesting how 20th and 21st Century populations have adapted their living amongst the ancient cities. Outside of these towns are beautiful, lush green rolling hills as far as the eye can see.

Each town consists of multiple duomos, some of which you are able to climb to the top of. Sometimes having in excess of 400 stairs, spiraling to the top. Well worth every step as you gain a unique perspective both inside and out. Unfortunately, as the number that we visited grew, the less interested we became. With each one containing thousands of years of history, the information became overwhelming. None the less every structure, especially the churches were stunning and gained our respect from every degree of thinking.

Roma
Our last three days of this perfect journey were spent exploring the vast city of Rome. Three days was enough for us. We covered most of the main part on foot, coming across the mind boggling structures of the Colliseum, the Roman Forum, Vatican City, Piazza Navona, The Spanish Steps, Medici Gardens and multiple other ruins that lay amongst this 21st century city. It's amazing how much history is just lying around not documented or even unearthed yet. This in fact was the most overwhelming experience we had the whole trip. Information overload is an understatement as we tried to grasp the timeline and historical moments that define this civilization of the past.

Our journey together began almost seven years ago to the date of our marriage and since has taken us to many reaches on this earth and within ourselves as well. This is yet another chapter in the continuous growth of our relationship as we add more pages to the beautiful novel of our life together.

Click here to view photos of Our Wedding

Click here to view photos of Our whole trip

When your soul shines......

Sometimes you find yourself in situations that are completely out of your control. Yet you still let them get the best of you. Chicago O'Hare International Airport was the most recent setting for my encounter with the uncontrollable. As we (Dennis, Joe, Fred, Zach and I) wait helplessly in the customer service line, they (Keith and Brewer) are taxiing on the runway for our final destination of Jackson Hole, Wy. Apparently we were booked with an extremely conservative airline vs. that of which they are on. The explanation we received was "Ice on the runway in Jackson"......yet (their) flight was able to land no problems what so ever. Next available flight.....9:30 the next morning! Now I am normally the positive one, making the best out of any given situation. This time was different. I knew deep down that it all would work out just fine, but in the moment I just could not shake the disappointment and frustration. Jackson Hole received about a foot of fresh powder Wed. the night before and expecting more to come Friday. Our delay in Chicago meant no fresh powder turns for us on Friday, leaving us only one day to experience the legendary mountains of Jackson. I am always up for an adventure, a new experience, and a night in Chicago, a city in which I had never visited was a perfect opportunity. This was not my frustration, the fact of only having one day to take in the JHMR was the issue.

Leaving the uncontrollable behind us, we found the closest bar in the airport. After a few drinks, two hotels and an hour train ride into the city, we found ourselves sitting in the infamous MLB broadcasters restaurant Harry Carey's. The rest of the night found us at a few other watering holes and some other aspects of your "quintessential" bachelor party.

Successfully catching our flight the next morning we finally made it to Jackson. Just as beautiful as I remembered it from my last trip here. What was even better was the reaction from my buddies who had not been here before, they were impressed to say the least. We made our way to the Teton Village to meet up with Brewer and Keith for some lunch at the Mangy Moose, then onto our house in the village. Later that night we drove into Jackson to have dinner at Trio and meet up with Brian W. and his daughter Lauren. Lauren resides in Jackson and was truly instrumental in many of the logistics of the weekend. Her hospitality and camaraderie were second to none. Following a phenomenal dinner and a few Blood Orange Margarita's we headed out for some nightlife. Trying to get into the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar was nearly impossible even on top of a $20 cover charge!! This was due to the World Championship Snowmobile Hill Climb being held this weekend. Every bar was over run with "slednecks" as we referred to them. So Lauren was nice enough to invite us back to her place for some drinks and good ol' fashion conversation and story telling. Tomorrow....SNOWMOBILING!~!!

An hour drive thru the vast and beautiful Teton National Park was our destination of Togwotee Mountain Lodge where we would depart from for our 7hr excursion thru the back country of Togwotee pass. We would cross over the continental divide, blast 60 - 70 mph across open meadows of pristine powder that was at least 2 ft or more deep. We would see Brewer slide off the trail and bury himself in a tree, eat a great meal at a great roadside restaurant that we drove our sleds right up to the front door. All the while being totally surrounded by some of the most beautiful and untouched landscape you have ever seen. It was a long and exhausting day.

Early that evening, the time spent in the hot tub relaxing, along with the challenges of making snow angels right out of the hot tub were well warranted. Then a nice pasta meal and we were ready for the night. There was a concert in the village that night. We were a little late to see the concert but were able to catch the fireworks display. It had not stopped snowing all day. It was still coming down as we arrived in time for the fireworks. This was a first for me. Let me just tell you that seeing fireworks display in the middle of a very heavy snow fall was truly a surreal experience. Hundreds of people bundled up, drinking beer and cheering for every blast of color that reflected off of the snowflakes. Afterwards, we headed to the extremely crowded Moose for some beers, the sighting of the YAKET and then to bed for another big day....this time....deep powder turns on the mountain!!

Never have I experienced such phenomenal snow conditions on a mountain. Even the locals were stating that it was unbelievable, especially for this time of year. We started off small, taking the Teewinot lift to the lower part of the mountain. We pretty much had to teach ourselves all over again. This was not the east coast! After a few passes down the lower mountain, we ventured higher. One of the best things about this level of powder is that is is so forgiving. We must have taken dozens of spills going down mountain. All of these head over heal, cartwheels and somersaults were accompanied with nothing but belly laughing fun! The times that we were upright (which occurred more often the longer the day progressed) were filled with celebratory hoots and woo-hoos. Not only from us, but from all ages all over the mountain. Happy folks everywhere, enjoying and livin life. About 3pm we called it a day and headed to the lodge for some drinks and munchies.

Later that night some of us split up. Unfortunately Dennis and Ryan had flown home earlier that day. Keith, Fred, Brewer and Milano had stayed in the village for some pizza. Zach and I drove to meet Brian and Lauren at one of the areas favorite Sunday night spots...The Stagecoach Bar in Wilson. Here you can find a mix of local ski bums, climbers that just got off of the rocks, your local Joe and the white collar workers all sitting around enjoying a beer, eating some awesome Mexican food while dancing the night away to the house band that has been playing there every single Sunday for 40 years!! This bluegrass, country western band is headed up by Bill Briggs, recently inducted into the skiers hall of fame. Some dancin, some beers and great company, the day could not have been any better.

Originally we were supposed to fly out of Jackson today...Monday afternoon. Joe and I had decided to stay one day longer due to the fact that we missed a day on the mountain from the circumstances in Chicago. Keith, Brewer, Fred and Zach flew out that day and Joe and I headed to the mountain. We immediately jump on the Tram. Jackson's latest, greatest, state of the art high speed aerial tram. In 9 min. it can transport 100 skiers/boarders 4100ft to the very top of the mountain. With music jamming in the cabin and an exceptional perspective of the mountain, it is definitely a highlight not to be missed. Upon exiting the tram, you are struck in the face by the blustery wind blowing off the 10,000 ft peak you are standing upon. What a view from up here. We were blessed by sunny blue skies that gave us an unobstructed view of the surrounding, gorgeous Tetons. Half of the day we rode the tram. This equates to about 3 rides since each descent can take over a half an hour at times. Not to mention the fatigue from yesterday and the effort it takes to make turns in the depth of the snow. In the afternoon we headed to the far left of the mountain to tackle some black diamonds. From Teewinot and Apres Vous, to the tram, Rendevous, Bernies Bowl and the Hobacks, it all can be summed up in on word...EPIC!

Continuing to extend her hospitality, Lauren offered to put us up for the night. Brian and her whipped up a delicious meal for all of us, including 3 of her closest and equally as great friends. Fresh salad, pizza and juicy steaks hit the spot. This coupled with more stories and some beautiful acoustical guitar and singing by Brian provided for the perfect end to such an almost unexplainable great 6 days!

This trip was bound for great things to happen. It has exceeded anything I could have planned. I had nine great, fantastic friends and family join me on this trip. I feel as though a tenth one has been added once we all met Lauren. A place like Jackson really makes you feel alive. My soul definitely shines in an environment like this. Yet it is the people that you are surrounded by that help define some of the soul shining experiences.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW ALL THE PICS FROM THE TRIP

Charmed on the Third

After two attempts at summiting two other fourteeners in the past two years, we felt confident with our expectations for bagging this challenging 14er...Capitol Peak. Capitol Peak is located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass wilderness of the Elk Range about 3hrs west of Denver. Reared as one of the most difficult 14ers in the state, the class 4 climbing required would prove to be the most mentally challenging climb for Ray and I to date.

Trying to set ourselves up for a successful summit, we decided to set up base camp below Capitol Lake at 11,500ft. This would allow us some acclimation time as well as get some good rest for a 4am alpine start. The trek to base camp was a beautiful 3hr, 6mile hike through the free range drainage basin of Capitol Creek. Hundreds of cattle seemed to be in grazing heaven amongst the lush valley that that roamed in. Other than the giant mosquitoes that were constantly landing on us, it was a pleasant approach to base camp with an almost constant view of the summit that lie ahead of us.
Food.....valuable lessons learned from the past about freeze dried food filled with 3k -4k mg of sodium...do everything in your power not to have to eat them!! With having a base camp we were able to justify the weight of carrying whole foods for the light trek to camp. Our meals consisted of cheese quesadillas w/ avocado and salsa, soup and rice, Pepperidge farm cookies, gummy bears, oatmeal w/honey and sliced almonds, peanut butter on tortillas and an array of energy bars.

4am we head out to find a way to where the sky meets the earth, with only the lights of our headlamps and the billions of stars guiding us. Even though the summit is only 3 miles away, it would take us three hours to.... traverse steep heart racing switchbacks, loose and slippery snowfields, boulder fields that offer no true route, a pass over a 13,600 ft peak named K2...and we have not even reached the challenging part yet. With only another 500ft of elevation to gain, our summit would take over an hour to achieve.

This is where the mental part really kicks in. With narrow ledges and "Knife Edge" crosses all with extreme exposure, make damn sure your foot and hand holds are bomber. Sheer cliffs with 2000 ft drops on the North and South sides of the mountain really make your mind and body work overtime!

Successfully reaching the summit is only half the battle. Down climbing this granite behemoth was equally as challenging both mentally and physically. After reaching K2 on the descent the harrowing part was behind us with joyful success. As we approached the switchbacks that lead down to Capitol Lake, we decided to follow suit and go for a victory swim in the crystal clear, glacial lake. (See video clip below!)

I can't be thankful enough that each year I am capable and healthy to embark on this tradition Ray and I have kept going since college. Each year we set out on a new adventure, to test our skills, our limits and find something new about ourselves. Something that we can bring back to apply to our everyday lives. Disconnecting from the world, even if it is just for a short time. All the while " Making the world a little bit smaller every trip." (Quote from Ray on the way back to Denver)
*Click here to view all of my pics from this climb *

Video - Summit View

Video - Capitol Lake

Video - Glacial Butt Slide