Almost a year ago, five good friends committed themselves to a challenging feat for a great cause. It was to attempt a summit of Mt. Rainer, North America's most glaciated mountain topping out at 14,400 feet. The organization hosting the climb was Big City Mountaineers, a charity that raises money for at-risk-teens in order to expand there horizons by giving them a wilderness based learning experience.After a year of preparation, the time was here. A flight to Seattle then a drive North to the town of Ashford, the crew (Brewer, Dennis, Ray,Tim and I) were ready for our adventure.
We met our guides who gave us a full day at mountaineering school on a glacier well below the summit. Enjoying a good nights rest, we were ready to set off the next morning to Camp Muir, which rests on a ridge at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Beginning our climb at Paradise (5400 feet), 4 hours and 4500 vertical feet later we arrive at Camp Muir. This camp consists of a climbers hut, a couple small ranger stations and some bathroom facilities that leave a lot to be desired. Counteracting the facilities was the view from camp. Resting well above the clouds, the only sites visible were the surrounding peaks soaring above 12,000 feet. Packing into the hut like sardines, everyone ate there dinner and hit the sack around 6pm or so, attempting to get some rest for the alpine start early the next morning.
11:30 pm the lights of the hut flicker on, and minutes later the hut is buzzing with all the climbers preparing for the summit attempt. Almost a full moon and the wind blowing hard, we don all of our gear, tie in to our rope teams and begin across the glacier en route to the summit. Tim and Brewer were on a team together guided by Jeff, and Ray and I were together with our guide Kate. Dennis had made a tough decision not to go any further than Camp Muir. Dennis had made a strong effort and has come a long way, but did not want the muscle cramping he was experiencing to hold anyone on the team back. Following a gentle start we were quickly awakened when were faced with crossing over cathedral gap which consisted of steep, loose and "sandy" terrain. It was as if we were climbing a never ending sand dune strune with loose rock and boulders combined with 40mph gusts of wind. The body temp. rose quickly.
Following Cathedral Gap we stepped onto Ingrahm Glacier and eventually came to " The Flats" (11,200 ft)where we took our first break. Throwing on our down jackets (break layer) to maintain our body heat, we quickly get a bite to eat and some liquids. Throughout the whole climb we are taught to constantly reassess ourselves and our capabilities as we ascend further up the mountain. At this point Tim makes a conscious decision to turn around. The wind and altitude combined had taken it's toll. For his first time on a mountain of this nature, it was a very impressive showing. Now with Brewer hooking into mine and Ray's rope team we push on. Due to the ever changing nature of glaciers, the normal route usually taken up Ingrahms direct was impassable. So we were redirected around Disappointment Cleaver which caused us to loose 400 vertical feet only to have to gain it back on the other side. Time for another break. After an hour or so of climbing, we were at the same elevation as the last break.
Re-evaluating himself, Brewer and a few others decided to turn back. For Brewer, he was feeling strong physically but the altitude was taking it's toll. Just like Tim, Brewer had a very impressive attempt seeing where he was about a year ago.
Beginning our way across Emmons Glacier, the terrain was becoming apparently more dangerous. We found ourselves clipping in to anchors and ropes placed by our guides to aid in any kind of fall. Below us were severe drop offs and deep crevasses. The rope I was following the whole time was connected to Ray. This rope was my life-line as well as the rest of our teams. With the increasing gusts of wind over 40mph, steep and icy terrain, this line meant a whole lot to everyone. As Ray expressed later back at camp and I agreed whole heartily; physically we were strong but mentally it was a challenge, balancing yourself with the wind, concentrating on every footstep making sure your crampon gets a good hold on the ice you are treading upon as well as your axe all while clipping in and out of all the anchor points.
Being the very last climber in the line rope teams I had a wonderful perspective of the trail ahead (or should I say above). While standing there steadying myself against the wind, I could lay my head back to see the zig-zag of headlamps lighting up the trail. We had been stopped for about 10 minutes or so, when word was passed down to me to turn around. Our guides had decided that with the wind and ice combined it was not safe to ascend any further. The mountains win again! Now leading the group back down the mountain, the sun is finally breaking over the horizon and we are able to see what we had been climbing all night. Words can't describe the beauty, the power, the elements that make up this mountain. Walking above the clouds, this whole experience is invigorating. Man do I feel alive! Since we had time to spare, our guides allowed us to experience the inside of a crevasse that appeared to be bottomless. Setting up anchors and a rope system they lowered us about 20 or so feet into the crevasse. A once in a lifetime experience!Heading back to camp to meet up with the rest of the team, I realize once again how fortunate and lucky I am to be surrounded by such stronghold of friends and family. This is my life-line and without it nothing that I have the passion to pursue in my life would be possible.
I want to thank everyone that has contributed and supported me these past two years for this benefit. This year we raised nearly $4000 for BCM.
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