Eat More Beef!

Bridget and I are extremely fortunate to have a fantastic group of friends that we cherish so deeply.  The diversity of this group allows for us to experience the many avenues this life provides.  Most recently the road we followed was to South America.  Ray and Megan have recently taken up temporary residence in the tango city of Buenos Aires.  Lucky for us, both of them are fluant in Spanish and made navigating the city that more pleasurable. 

Upon our arrival we headed down to one of R and M's favorite places to snack on very tasty baked empanadas!  After filling ourselves we took a short tour of the nearby neighborhoods, picked up some local, very inexpensive but top notch Malbec wine and some fresh handmade pasta for a quiet homecooked meal that night.  These series of events quickly became our loose routine for the week.  Since the food is so delectable, all the days activities were planned around where we were going to eat and drink next.

Traditional Argentine breakfast consists of cortado's (expresso cut with milk), small juice, water and mouth watering croissants known as medialunas.  Lunches and dinners are all about the beef.  Paradillas (grills) are everywhere in the city and the favorite amongst the locals.  Be sure to fill up at lunch because it will need to tie you over for the rest of the afternoon and into the night until the restuarants open near 10pm!  Not to fear, if you need a snack or a quick sugar fix, just stop by Volta and savor a creamy helado (gelato), the best in B.A.! If helado is not your choice there is always the traditional alfajores, two round sweet biscuits/cookies joined together with dulce de leche (a milk based caramel sauce).

Dinner at Casa Coupage by far was the best overall dining experience we had in B.A.  Set within a mid-century Palermo home, two sommeliers are your host as they guide you through a wine tasting and seasonal food pairing.  From 9pm til 1am the four of us ate, drank conversed and laughed, thoroughly enjoying this genuine time with each other.

Standing as the largest city in Argentina and the second largest metro area in South America, B.A. holds many treasures to be discovered.  Mostly by foot or subte (the subway) we had the chance to explore this cities neighborhoods such as Palermo, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho, Recoleta and San Telmo.  In Palermo, the largest neighborhood in B.A., we had to opportunity to stroll through the botanical gardens that play host to over 5,500 species of plants, trees and shrubs.  Not to mention a very large community of cats! Palermo Hollywood gained it's name due to all the TV and Radio produces that took up residence there in the mid 90's.  We also visited a small organic market here as a "field trip" with ray and his Spanish Tutor.  A good learning experience for all!  P. Soho is an area known for it's fashion and provided us the opportunity to do plenty of window shopping.  A very popular district for young upper-class Argentines due to the fashion and street culture set amongst old B.A. architecture.  Recoletta is an affluent, exclusive and the most expensive neighborhood to reside in in B.A.  Not only is it expensive to live in, but to be laid to rest in Recoleta you need to have a great sum of money.

 La Recoleta Cemetary is a world famous mausoleum where some of the most influential and wealthiest Argentines lye, including Eva Perone.  Recoleta was populated by the wealthy citizens fleeing the late 19th cent. cholera epidemic that spread through the San Telmo neighborhood.  San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in B.A.  Here you can find numerous antique shops, many local artists and more often than none, spot a couple beautifully executing the seductive dance of Tango.

About an hour north of Buenos Aires by train, is the delta region of Argentina.  Tigre is the hub where city dwellers escape the harsh heat of summer by jumping on a boat and wisking off to one of the many islands resting within the multiple arms of the river.  Whether it is a day trip, camping or lying in a hamock next to your summer home, this region is a true gem. 

Bridget and I cannot express enough our gratitude to Ray and Megan.  Along with being wonderful hosts (and tour guides) the memories gained from our ever growing friendship will never be forgotten.

(As Megan once exclaimed "Bubbles of Joy!, Bubbles of Joy") 

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